【Commentary】Wandering through local shops: Between the old and the new
“Leave bustling shopping centres behind and wander into the nooks and crannies—unearth local shops between the old and the new. Savour the feeling of old Hong Kong in traditional shops, and experience the creativity and vitality of newly established shops.”
Journalist: Sara
Illustrator: Tendarken
Translation: Alex Rednaxela
Editorial: Zucchhi, MTK, Paris
The phenomenon of large chain restaurants cropping up in shopping centres is now commonplace—no matter which mall you visit, you’ll see them. On the other hand, little shops can’t afford the extortionate rents and often end up in places so out of the way they’re overlooked even by people walking past. If you’re sick of the commercial designs and cookie-cutter flavours of chain restaurants, why not spend a little time exploring some local restaurants? Savour the feeling of old Hong Kong in traditional shops, and experience the creativity and vitality of newly established shops.
Many traditional shops preserve the feeling of old Hong Kong and manifest the charm of the people. Sing Heung Yuen is a venerable dai pai dong (open-air food stall) nestled in a Central backstreet. Most people recommend the ‘Lemon Honey Crispy Toast’, ‘Beef and Tomato Macaroni Soup’ and the salted lemon 7-Up. The dai pai dong is a little shabby but clean. There is certainly no air conditioning and some customers complain about the service.
Owner Irene Lee explains, “People often think we’re rude, but that’s just the dai pai dong style!” In fact, it’s not just dai pai dongs—the service at cha chaan tengs (Hong Kong-style cafes) can also leave an impression of waiters being distant and removed. But perhaps it’s just this particular kind of foible that gives Hongkongers such an inexplicable sense of intimacy.
Newly opened shops are often conceived with boldness and creativity, cutting close to trends and fashions. 9¾ Cafe is a magic-themed restaurant which draws on the incredibly popular film franchise Harry Potter for its design. Owner Kevin says, “We hope to attract younger customers. We want friends to gather here in large groups and chat away the hours.” Unlike traditional restaurants that focus on their food and big-name dishes to bring in customers, 9¾ Cafe emphasises its thematic design and functions as a space for gatherings to attract its patronage.
Traditional Hong Kong bakeries are also on the wane, so some shops have decided to weave new elements into the old and breathe life into classic buns. Wah Yee Tang Cake Shop is no exception. Second-generation owner Naomi mentioned the shop’s previously launched ‘foul-mouthed moon cakes’ and recent innovations: a series of ‘resistance cookies’ with ‘don’t touch my back,’ ‘freedom c**t’ and other popular terms written on them. Traditional buns laced with collective memory are remade with social issues to form a combination of nostalgia and modernity, demonstrating both the creativity of local shops and their ability to maintain the flavour of old Hong Kong.
There are also new shops based on Hong Kong-style cooking drawn together with foreign elements, creating special flavours unique to Hongkongers. Tomato C Hing is a Hong Kong noodle shop whose signature dish maintains the tomato soup base familiar to all Hongkongers, but with added Hokkaido scallops, thickly-cut pork chops and other selected ingredients that match Hongkongers’ tastes. Owner Matthew said, “I spent several months trying Tom Yum, Laksa, corn-chicken and pumpkin soups to make speciality bases.” Clearly in his eyes Hongkongers can appreciate diverse flavours, and the tastes unique to Hong Kong are made by melding styles from across the world—this is one of Hong Kong cuisine’s defining characteristics.
Established culinary editor Emily Tong often takes chefs and critics from around the world to Sham Shui Po where there are nostalgic snacks and modern cafes. In reality, local shops old and new are not just in Sham Shui Po. This is precisely the value of Hong Kong—it’s a gathering and melding of cultures past and present, East and West.
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This article was featured on Apply Daily English Version. See the article @ https://hk.appledaily.com/feature/20210213/MCAMXPQIRVGJFDQTAVQUGCCI3A/